Out of Bolivia, into Peru — OWN THE UNKNOWN

Our departure out of La Paz was delayed twice as we took turns getting the dreaded stomach bug that always seems to come at some point during travelling. When it was my turn we made it a whopping 1.5km from the hotel before we had turn around and check back in. After 5 days in the city and 3 of those spent in bed we were more than ready to get moving again. We had been dreading the exit as it meant contending with the crazy city traffic of La Paz and the connecting city of El Alto for 30km, but in the end we made it out with relative few problems. The 14km climb out of the La Paz valley was on a highway with a nice wide shoulder and gentle gradient.

Next it was into the chaos of El Alto where we jockeyed with the hundreds of vans that serve as local transportation for position on the road. They constantly stop to pick up passengers with little warning requiring constant maneuvering around them.

Finally on the outskirts of El Alto. Figuring out how to get back on the highway

Unfortunately the end of the city did not mean smooth sailing as we contended with a very long section of road construction. I was not impressed when a van coming from the other direction felt the need to veer onto my side of the road on a muddy dirt detour and shower me and my bike with a lovely mixture of mud and water. Eventually we escaped the construction and were back on the normal highway and smoother riding to Lake Titicaca.

Lunch stop in the plaza of a small village after finally escaping the city

The ride through the city had taken its toll on us and by lunch time or nasal passages were raw from breathing in the horrendous fumes escaping from the dilapidated vehicles belching out clouds of black smoke.

Ty gets to ride through the lovely exhaust from the Jesus bus

Our first views of Lake Titicaca were impressive as we crested a hill and caught our first glimpse of its deep blue waters.

We continued on and ended up staying in a strange empty resort along the shore. It had an incredible view, but probably hadn't been renovated since the seventies.

Living the resort life. Snacks by the lake, creepy old playground and cooking Kraft Dinner with a very nice view

The next day we continued on alongside the lake through small villages with people out farming and tending to animals. A nice change from the desolate desert areas we have been in.

It was silly for me to think that since we are riding by the lake all day out journey would be a flat one. We climbed up and up for some breathtaking views.

You don't even notice the uphills with views like this

After out first big climb we descended down to the lakeshore and hopped on a barge to take us a short distance across the lake to where the road continued.

After a short break on the other side of the lake we began what turned out to be a 30km ascent up and up and up some more. The views were incredible, but it was exhausting as we made our way back up to 4200m of elevation.

The ascent did have an end and finally we were rolling down a steep downhill into the tourist haven of Copacabana.

It is always a bit jarring entering a tourist town after spending days in small towns where we don't see any, but we took advantage of a nice cheap hotel and the row of beach side stalls serving delicious trout from the lake.

From Copacabana we decided to head over to Isla Del Sol, an island in the middle of the lake, for a few days of car free relaxation. The inhabited island has only walking paths so donkeys and peoples' backs are the only way goods are transported on the island. It was a truly spectacular island and the view from our $10 a night hostel couldn't have been any better.

We spent a day exploring the island by foot and exercising muscles that have gone a bit dormant.

Another great sunset and then it was time to return back to the mainland. With only 10 km to go to reach the Peruvian border our Bolivian chapter is closing and time to see what Peru has in store for us.