Backpacking on a Bicycle

Another two weeks gone in the blink of an eye. I just finished a crazy bicycle journey that took me to some of the most beautiful spots I have ever been to and introduced me to some really interesting people along the way. Just finished my ride in Hobart yesterday and ended the journey in the best way possible by somehow lucking out and getting a hostel dorm room all to myself for the first time in 3 months! I guess I should start at the beginning though...

Last we left off I was in Launceston renting a bike so that I could go cycle touring. It was here that I met Douglas, the old man who supplies bikes and camping equipment for all your Tasmanian adventures. I showed up at his house the day before I planned to leave to check out his bikes and ask a few questions. He let me in muttering about how the world moves too fast and that everyone is in a rush. I'm pretty sure he had to be in his 80's. Walking into his house was an instant visual assault. There was stuff everywhere. The front room of the house was crammed with row after row of bicycles. It was so full you couldn't even walk between them. Then there was another room full of camping equipment. Random tools, bike parts and equipment were scattered on every single flat surface. Before I could even ask about bikes he started talking and all of the sudden 1.5 hours later I had pretty much heard his entire life story. How he ran a hostel for 30 years, how he met his wife, his travels around the world. Then he wanted to show me a book so we squeezed by a kayak that was blocking the staircase and he took me up to a living room where every wall was covered in books, all organized by subject. It was an interesting conversation, but I wasn't sure how I was going to be able to leave. He would switch between stories in the middle of each other, but somehow always remember to finish them in the end. Fortunately, we were interrupted by a couple renting a bike and I was able to sneak out without having chosen a bike.

The next morning I returned, got a bike set up, loaded up all my camping gear and then I was off. It's a strange feeling riding a bike that is weighted down with gear and it was trial by fire as my first 3 days were the toughest of the entire 2 week trip and required clearing the hilly interior region to reach the coast. 20 minutes into the journey I was climbing a fairly gradual hill at a snails pace in the lowest gear and wondering to myself if I had made a horrible mistake. I kept chugging along and in the end it was well worth it.

It's amazing how simple life becomes while touring on a bike and I was quickly immersed into a regular routine. Get up in the morning when the sun comes up, eat breakfast, load up all your gear onto the bike and start cycling. Stop a couple times along the way to take photos, drink water and eat. Roll into the next small town, find the campground, set up your tiny one men tent in between the camper vans and RVs, check out the selection of the one grocery store. Head back to cook dinner and then because it is dark by 7:30 go to bed so completely exhausted you are asleep by 9. Wake up the next morning and repeat.

Tasmania was the perfect introduction to cycle touring because even though the highways are narrow and mostly there are no shoulders the traffic is really light. The towns you pass through are small with one main strip, but they are fairly close together which meant not having to carry very much food.

The landscape was phenomenal and it was amazing watching it go by when I wasn't cursing my way up to the top of hairpin turns and had a chance to look around. I passed through farms, vineyards, forests, along beautiful deserted white sand beaches and along the top of sea cliffs. In a few of the national parks along the way I stayed an extra night or two to go hiking. I watched the sunset over flaming orange rocks in Bay of Fires and hiked along pristine beaches in Freycinet park. I only went swimming once as the ocean here is icy cold even though the beaches look like they belong in a tropical getaway brochure.

One of my favorite parts of the journey was taking a ferry to Maria Island. The entire island is a national park and no cars are allowed onto the island. The island was originally set up as a penitentiary colony and then had some failed history of people trying to farm or set up various industries there. There are old buildings to explore, mountains to climb, beaches to visit and dirt roads that you can cycle on. There was wildlife everywhere and I finally got to see live versions of the never ending road kill I passed in varying states of decay every couple of kms on the highways.

One night I had the fly to my tent open to let in some air and I was reading with my earplugs in and headlamp on when all of the sudden I looked out and there was a furry mass sitting on the other side of the screen door inches away from my head. A fat wombat had decided to checkout the vestibule of my tent until my movement sent him waddling off into the night. There were also geese, birds, kangaroos and the elusive Tasmanian devil. I think I saw the outline of a Devil in the dark, but wasn't close enough to be sure.

What made the trip a blast were the people I met along the way. Most of the people in the campgrounds were "Grey Nomads" aka retired couples traveling around in RVs and many would stop to chat. Pulling up on a fully loaded bicycle is an instant conversation starter. There are a few notable encounters I would like to mention:

Liz and Dave, who I originally met at Douglas' place while renting my bike. After surviving my first day of cycling I was setting up my tent when someone shouted my name. Stunned, I looked at this lady waving frantically at me. It took me a moment to figure out who she was, but we had a good laugh about the bike rental experience. They then invited me to their camper van for a delicious ice cold cider. Liz was riding sections of the same route as me, but would then get Dave to pick her up when she had enough. The next day as I was struggling up the final section of a big pass they passed by me in their van honking and with Liz hanging out the window yelling encouragement.

The lady who gave me a couple fresh tomatoes because she knew I couldn't buy a full bag from the old guy on the scooter who was zooming around the campground and selling them. They were really delicious.

The multiple people who checked up on me and offered to share their dinner if I didn't have enough to eat.

Wendy, whom I met while getting groceries wearing the stereotypical hippy bandana and circular sunglasses. We were both headed out to camp in one of the national parks so she suggested we share a site since she sleeps in her SUV I could use the tent pad. I am always game to save a couple of bucks so I said sure. She left Canada 30 years ago to visit Australia and just never went home. She is now retired and has been driving around Tasmania for the last two months in her SUV and camping along the way. The one day I biked to the start of a hike and then spent the day hiking. When I got back to my bike she had left me a note saying that she was gone into town to buy beer. Great way to end a hike. She also cooked me a delicious meal of pasta with fresh vegetables.

Bill, who I met on the ferry to Maria island. Gave up a high paying job and long work hours as a manager in Wales, moved to Tasmania and now does maintenance and cleaning at a resort. He was so happy with his new life and full of energy. He gave me half of his six pack which was very generous.

The old Scottish lady with bright red dyed hair and fancy clothes who came storming out of her RV as I was trying to get my tent set up in cold windy weather to congratulate me and tell me she was proud of me. Not sure exactly why as her accent was thick and I only caught about half of what she said, but I think it was because I was traveling by myself. Mom and Dad she also told me I should tell you what she said to me so there you are I have fulfilled my promise to her.

And that is a summary of traveling around on a bicycle for a couple of weeks. An unforgettable journey that still makes me smile when I look back on it. My time in Australia is very quickly winding down. In a few days I will be back on the mainland and in a week I will be on my way to Nepal. Can't wait to return to the country that captured my heart 5 years ago!